Your freezer shouldn’t freeze. We can help you identify the causes of most freezer repair problems.
Is your frozen food losing its chill? Are your frozen meats so browned that they are almost white? Is your freezer groaning and moaning like Old Man Winter? Or worse, is it not even working at all?
Your freezer might not need to be repaired or replaced if it isn’t working properly. You can do some research on your own before calling in an expert to repair it.
#1 PROBLEM: My freezer makes strange sounds
LIKELY CULPRIT: It is necessary to replace the fan motor. Be aware that not all freezers make the exact same sound.
You may also hear noises from the freezer.
- As it collects a batch, the ice maker makes clicking sounds
- As the appliance goes through a freeze cycle, you will hear sizzling sounds
- As water evaporates from the evaporative coil during defrost, you will hear a gurgling sound
- As a multi-speed fan speeds up, it makes whirling or swishing sounds
It is important to find out if the appliance has any other problems. Does the icemaker work? Is the freezer able to maintain the temperature you desire? Is it capable of dispense water or ice?
If all is well, the noise could be due to the appliance operating as normal.
It can be difficult to diagnose a noise complaint. It can be difficult to determine what sounds like humming or buzzing one day and another. Loudness can be relative. What is loud at night might sound quiet during the day. The appliance will sound different depending on the conditions.
For more information on normal operating sounds, always refer to the owner’s guide.
If there is another problem with the appliance, it will be more likely that the noise complaint can also be resolved.
#2 PROBLEM: Frost is growing in my freezer
LIKELY CULPRIT: It is necessary to replace the defrost heater.
It could be caused by many factors, depending on the location of frost formation.
- Frosty areas around the gaskets of the freezer doors indicates that the door wasn’t closed properly. You should look for packaging and other items that could prevent gaskets from sealing properly. This includes food packages sticking out, drawers that aren’t fully sealing, drawers that aren’t locked, or items on top of the appliance.
- If the frost seems light and snowy, it is possible that the freezer temperature has been set too low. The appliance won’t be able to remove moisture from the air if the temperature is too low. Before the appliance cools down, the moisture will become “snow”. The freezer should be kept at 0°F (-18°C) and the refrigerator at 37°F (3°C).
- If the frost is thick and hard, it is possible that the freezer door was not shut. The frost will initially form near the door, but eventually will cover the interior. Most cases can be fixed by addressing the problem that caused the frost buildup. The freezer will then go through several defrost cycles to clear the excess frost.
- Frost buildup on the back of your freezer section (where the evaporator coil is) indicates an issue in the defrost cycle. This could indicate a problem with the defrost cycle, heater, bimetal or defrost sensor depending on the appliance. To resolve the problem, further troubleshooting may be necessary.
#3 PROBLEM: A small puddle is visible on the floor near my fridge.
LIKELY CULPRIT: The drain that has been frozen is to be removed and cleaned.
If the appliance is connected to water, another possibility is that the leak may be from the household connections. + Check the water line connecting the freezer to the shutoff valve. Pay attention to the connection between the water line and the household valve. If the water line is leaking, it should be replaced.
- You should inspect the area around the shutoff valve. If the valve is leaking, it should be replaced. If you are unable to do it yourself, contact a licensed plumber.
The condensation pan may have overfilled if the water is not coming from the freezer. Overfilling can be caused by the following:
- The evaporative coils can become frosty from too much heat. The freezer is producing more water during a defrost cycle than the drain pan can handle. This could be caused by high usage, particularly during high humidity. Limit how often the freezer door is opened and how long it is left open.
- The condensation pan doesn’t allow water to evaporate before the next cycle. The back mechanical room cover must be in place. This will allow for proper airflow above the condensation pan. It will increase the rate of water vaporization. If the cover is damaged or missing, it will need to replaced.
If the condensation pan is cracked or leaking, it will need to either be replaced or repaired.
#4 PROBLEM: My freezer won’t start.
LIKELY CULPRIT: First, check that the freezer light and power light indicators are functioning. If the power light indicator and freezer light are not working, it is possible that there is no power flowing to your product.
Verify that the controls of your appliance are working properly.
- The demo mode, or showroom mode for new appliances, is used to demonstrate features and not run the cooling system. The instructions for setting up the appliance in demo mode and how to remove it from demo mode are usually found in the owner’s guide in the section “Setting the Appliances’ Controls”.
- Another setting you should check is whether the freezer has been turned off or powered off. Check that the temperature controls for the fridge and freezer are set at 0degF (-18degC). The midpoint setting should be used for mechanical controls. For detailed instructions on how to adjust the temperature of the appliance, refer to the owner’s guide.
Check that the appliance is powered on. You should check that the light in the refrigerator turns on when you open it.
Plug a lamp or hairdryer into the outlet if it doesn’t work. If the device doesn’t work, it is likely that the outlet doesn’t have enough power. You should look for a tripped GFI outlet or circuit breaker. For more serious electrical issues, contact a licensed electrician.
If there’s power going to the outlet, there may be an issue with the main control or user interface boards, or the temperature-monitoring devices such as the sensors, or the thermostat might be bad. To pinpoint the problem and fix it, further troubleshooting is required.
#5 PROBLEM: It is too hot.
LIKELY CULPRIT: If the contacts of your defroster don’t work properly, you need to replace them. Normal freezer temperatures are between 0oF to 5oF.
These are the things you should look for in a freezer that is heating up, while the refrigerator is at the right temperature.
- Make sure the freezer is at its set temperature. It should not have been accidentally set to a higher temperature than it was intended. Set the temperature to the recommended setting of 0degF (-18degC) if it was.
- Make sure there is enough product in the freezer section. The freezer should be kept 70% to 85% full. The appliance will not function properly if there is too much or insufficient stuff.
- It is important to place products in the appliance. It is important to keep products evenly distributed near the center of shelves, so that they do not block vents or hinder air circulation.
- Make sure the appliance is kept at 55°F (13°C) or 110°F (43°C). The freezer might not be able to keep its temperature if the environment is too cold. The appliance will struggle to get the interior at the desired temperature if the environment is too hot.
More explanations are available here:
- If the back of your freezer, where you will find the evaporator coil, is heavily frozen, there could be a problem with the defrost. It could be caused by a malfunctioning defrost heater or bimetal, defrost sensor, control board, or defrost controller.
- The temperature-monitoring device may be malfunctioning, either a temperature sensor or thermostat isn’t reading the temperature correctly.
- It is possible that the main control board is not correctly reading the temperature input.
- It is possible that the seal system is leaking and that there is not enough freon in the freezer to cool it to the desired temperature.